Physical Skills

Making your body do what you want it to

The human body is an amazingly complex system.  There are a number of underlying processes which act and interact to make up the basic funcionality of the body.  Control over these subsystems can be achieved, by various methods and with varying degrees of success, but the point of it all is to manifest the will of your mind into action or inaction of the body and its various subsystems.  

The point is mental control over your physical faculties.  

Feedback

Your mind only has so many options for receiving input--eyes, ears, nose, fingertips, etc.   Each of these input paths provide the brain with various streams of neural feedback, and this is how the brain gets its information.  These neural signals are often a two-way street--this is where our output paths come from.  Signals come from the brain and then tell individual parts of the body to do something (or not to do something).  

Most of the time we don't even think about this sort of input/output.  When you walk, you don't consciously think 'right foot' - 'left foot' - 'right foot'--certain subsystems of the central nervous and muscular systems take care of the lower level input/output that is required to walk.  You just think 'keep walking' - 'turn left' - 'stop'.  

But when learning to do something (such as walk), there is often a lot more conscious effort required to the facilitate the steps involved in the process.  As we learn to do something, mental pathways are formed and reinforced which help to relieve the conscious effort required to perform more complex tasks.  

Subsystem Interoperability

Complex tasks are often comprised of interactions between multiple subsystems of the body, not just muscular control.  Input from various senses (sight, hearing, kinesthetics and proprioception) is combined with rhythmic control (timing) and ideas about what you want to make your body do become transformed into action. 

Take bowling, for instance--you have to receive visual information about the location of the pins and the lane, filter that against your spatial concept of the situation (your understanding of the structure you're in, about the physical properties of the ball, lane, and pins, and your estimate of the distances and energy levels involved), then coordinate a controlled forward movement (read: walk), and at the correct time relax the muscles holding the ball in order to place the right spin, speed and angle on the ball to (hopefully) knock down some pins.  

Bowlers don't often have to think about these things on a conscious level, but some part of their brain is either processing these factors, or relying on a neural pathway that was formed/reinforced in similar actions you've performed in the past (read: practice).  

Practice Makes Perfect (Or 'Bad Habits and You')

This quote should actually read 'Perfect Practice Makes Perfect' because it is just as we learn by repetition, it is possible to learn something the wrong way by repeating inefficient ways of doing things.  Sometimes it's because we aren't getting the proper feedback about what it is we're doing (i.e. we think we're doing it the right way).  Other times the quality of our templates for action begin to atrophy.  This is manifested in the form of sloppiness and laziness (when it just doesn't seem like you're trying).  

The good news is that these skills are often changeable, and they build on each other.  Just like all the individual systems that make up your body add up to more than the sum of their parts (read: you, the whole you), your individual skills become more than the sum of their parts--you become more in tune with your body, like it starts to listen to you better.  

Pushing the Edge of Your Envelope

That says your envelope.  Everybody's body is put together just a little bit differently.  That said, most people stop trying to master their bodies when they think they've got the hang of it.  You can walk, jog, run, jump, maybe play the piano, touchtype, play Nintendo. and blah blah blah, so why should you even waste time thinking about making your body do exactly what you want, right?  

The answer is going to be a little bit different for everyone, but some common themes include--general health (maybe you'll live a little longer if you take care of your meat-vessel), sense of control (the control you feel over your body seeps into other parts of your life (more dexterity, more stamina, less aches, etc.), better performance in your tasks (both work and play), increased self-discipline, and the list goes on.  

By seeking the edge of your natural envelope (i.e. what your body is really capable of), you are able to determine your limits, and often find ways to extend those limits. 

Further Reading

Hopefully reading this has helped spark a little thought in you about your own relationship between your mind and body.  Here are a few jumping off points to help along the way.  If you find something that helps you improve your mastery of the flesh, by all means feel free to contribute to this page.  

- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kinesthetics

- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proprioception

- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muscle_memory

- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_skill

Fit Club

Fit Club is an informal strength training exercise group.

Inspiration

I've wanted to get fit for a long time. My old friend and perrenial roommate Nathan Rice, a competitive power lifter and martial artist, first showed me how to eat enough of the right food to fuel body building. I wasn't converting calories into strength in a gym yet though: I was hesitant at first as I had done lifting before with little consistency or results.

When I learned about Max Contraction training methods from my friend Sean Kennedy The Fucking Man Rant Radio, I became excited. Sean is a bouncer, a Canadian Forces soldier and a fitness nut so I took his glowing reviews and the success of his vegan buddy Cimmerian very seriously.

It wasn't until I got back from Burning Man fresh from a number of Fight Club bouts against 230 pound guys twice my strength that I took the plunge to get the John Little book and hit the gym. I started Fit Club to make my own training more fun by bringing friends along and my enthusiasm for the idea spread the idea quickly.

Goals

My personal goal is to reach 200 pounds by adding 20 pounds of muscle.

Before And Afters

It is a great idea to take pictures of your body before you begin training and periodically take new pictures showing your progress.

Check out these before and after pictures of a guy who was doing a less efficient protocol for a year. This is what we're going for.

Membership

Current Fit Club Members are split into two teams and may subdivide further in future:

  • Regulars
    • Alex Peake
    • Griffin
    • Ron
    • Nathan Hackman
    • Trevor Marks
    • Byron Blanco
    • Hannah
  • Occasionals
    • David Voigt
    • Randal
  • Guests Who May Join Later
    • Lynnette
  • Invitees
    • Dustin
    • Pierre?
    • Josh
    • Kelsey

Our Gym

We evaluated both Spectrum and 24 Hour Fitness and went with 24 Hour because it offered the most flexibility in workout times. This has turned out to be important for nights when delays pop up or new people need more hands-on instruction, making the workout take longer.

At some point in the near future we'll gather for a decision making meeting and weigh all the pros and cons of each gym and take a vote.

Data Logging

"The first rule of Fit Club is write that shit down!" 

View Our Google Spreadsheet

Members get editing rights to log their own data.

Print out the spreadsheet and bring it to the gym to fill in as you go.

Fit Club's Training Log Google Spreadsheet

Remember, every time you do an excercise: Write that shit down!

Necessary Equipment

  • Gloves: Heavy full-fingered leather gloves for shrugging 200+ pounds and doing other lifts after the fingers get sore
  • Max Straps: one pair per group leader is adequate provided the leader is consistent and timely.
  • Clothing: Gym clothing regulations are not strictly enforced. Obviously, light clothing is best. You can get away with BDU pants and a T-shirt, which is handy for carrying around pens, papers, max straps and the like. Underarmor Pants
  • Book: The Max Contraction book by John Little which I purchased.
  • Straps: Max Straps are an essential tool to perform some of the exercises.
  • Video: I bought the Max Contraction DVD. It is available to those who want to watch it.

Lessons Learned

Finding the right gym machines adds a dimension of complexity to the training.

Some machines seem to make performing max contraction easy and others seem problematic.

Leg Extension: This machine is straight-forward. upon maxing the stack out at 305 pounds, I switched to doing 165 with each leg separately only to discover that my left leg is dramatically weaker than my right.

Leg Curl: Leg curls are easy. At first I overcame maxing out the 210 pound stack by attaching 70 pound free weights to reach a load of 280 pounds but this is probably against gym rules. I switched to doing 140 pounds on each leg separately and it works well.

Pec Deck: I quickly maxed out the Pec Deck's 210 pounds and found that this machine doesn't easily switch to one arm at a time because it twists the body too much. I switched to the cable pulldown method at 100 pounds.

Shrug: I found the technique that works best for me is to completely shrug my shoulders in advance, bend my knees to grip the weight, then stand up while maintaining the shrugged posture.

The shrug scales up very well. I've gone from 140 pounds to 300 pounds in 2 months. I found that beyond 200 pounds I needed heavy gloves to protect my hands enough to maintain a grip on the weight. Leaning back so the grip pushed against my body helps slightly.

Max Crunches: Max Crunches at high weights like 180 pounds make form more difficult. I found myself using my neck to keep the weight supported.

Lock

Locking up bags and clothes requires a suitable lock. I will bulk purchase locks for everyone who needs them.

Log

Quick Update Friday Nov 10

So I've stopped using the Google Spreadsheet temporarily as I have to enter data from the whole group myself so its collaborative features are less important than straight-forward printability and rapid data entry that I get with Excel. Results are excellent! I weigh 192.5 pounds.

Day 1

So I'm now beginning Max Contraction training with my group of friends. On our first day David, Trevor and Byron showed up. A great turnout for our first day with more on the way.

I'm experimenting with some web 2.0 spreadsheets to track our data in a way that we can share.

I first made a Google Spreadsheet and Google is my initial favorite.

My NumSum didn't complete as it seemed lacking compared to Google and had some bugs.

I'm also going to try out Zoho, which looks like the most powerful but is a distressing shade of green compared to Google's elegant look, runs slightly laggier on Mac Firefox than Google and offers more features than I need.

This review of the spreadsheets available is very detailed and interesting.

We're going to get pumped and measure it scientifically using the Power of the Interweb.

I'm also thinking about ways to give everyone their printouts at the gym to carry around in groups of 3. Logs would then be stored in a central binder for data collection purposes and I'd be in charge of entering data at the end of the day.

Next stop is 24 Hour Fitness on Thursday at 10 oclock at night where Randal will show us what they have to offer.

Research Notes

I am continually looking for critical perspectives on Max Contraction and one I came across is Drew Baye's Max Contraction Review. http://www.baye.com/articles/baye008.html It turns out that Drew Baye co-authored Advanced Max Contraction as a refinement of the techniques for advanced builders, which I was aware of but will really have to pick up now.

Fit Club is.

 

Diet

Figuring out how to optimize your food for a diet that is tasty to eat, inexpensive to buy, efficient to prepare, balanced for your fitness and nutritious for your health.


Dietary Theories

There are many different diets and dietary theories that become popular. Nutrition and fitness is a continually evolving field. Pick dietary theories that work for you. The important thing is to apply yourself with dilligence.


External Links

 

 

Exercise

Physical training.


Stamina Training Exercises


Strength Training Exercises


Different PT Goals

  • Strength
  • Stamina
  • Weight Loss

Hindu Squats

HSquat1.jpg

Begin with your hands pulled in tight to the chest. (Photos by Carol Bass)

HSquat2.jpg

Bring your hands down and lower your body. Keep hands behind your back for balance.

HSquat3.jpg

Come up on toes at the bottom. Keep your body upright and your arms down.

HSquat4.jpg

Swing the arms forward and push off your toes.

HSquat5.jpg

As you rise, the arms continue up to chest level. When you’re upright, pull your hands in to the chest and begin again.


Hindu Pushups

http://www.cbass.com/Furey.htm

 

 

Guide to Wellness, Health, and Training

What you know about being healthy is most likely completely wrong. Everyone you've talked to about physical training and diet, from your Gym teacher to your personal trainer at the gym, has lead you astray from a truely all inclusive and sustainable personal health plan. Squats hurt your knees, deadlifts are bad for your back, curls, smith machines, running for hours on end, MY GENETICS/THYROID MAKE IT IMPOSSIBLE, food psychology and marketing, aspartame and corn syrup, 8000 situps to get TONED abs, 5 FAST WEIGHT-LOSS TIPS, frozen microwave meals, spot reduction, blah blah blah. It's all a lie to make it seem like you don't have to think about your own well being and just to follow a predesigned path.

Beginners FAQ on Weight, Exercise, Nutrition / Diet

An Introduction

[A01]I'm Fat, I Want To Lose Weight (Weight Loss)

..[B01] Why Being Overweight Is So Dangerous

[A02]I'm Skinny, I Want To Gain Weight (Weight Gain)

[A03]Exercise
..[B03] On: Bullshit
..[C03] On: Bullshit for Women
..[D03] On: List of all the Exercises

[A04] Nutrition
..[B04] Why Severe Calorie Restriction (Low Calorie Diets) Is Unhealthy

[A05]Body Composition Q&A
..[B05] I Want Abs
..[C05] I Want To Lose Fat In/Around <Insert Body Area/Part> (Spot Reduction)
..[D05] Turning Fat Into Muscle
..[E05] TONED DOES NOT MEAN WHAT YOU THINK IT MEANS


[A06]Supplements And You

A01 I'm Fat, I Want To Lose Weight (Weight Loss)

Diet is the most important single factor in your health, body composition and overall appearance. We'll start slowly;

Food determines how big you are. If you consume more calories than you expend, you will get bigger. If you consume fewer calories than you expend, you will get smaller. If you meet your maintenance needs, you will stay the same. Regardless of your metabolism, body composition, genetics, or whatever, at some point your body must obey the laws of thermodynamics. At the end of the day, everything is calories in and calories out.

You can't get big if you don't eat big. That goes for muscle, fat, whatever. You can lift huge weights 10,000 times a day, and if you don�t eat more calories than you expend, you won't gain a milligram of mass. Conversely, if you burn 10,000 calories a day and eat 11,000 calories a day you will gain weight. Exercise plays a big role in what that extra weight becomes (fat or muscle), but the weight comes from food.

More on food in the nutrition section [A05].

 

Exercise:

Fill out Manuel's Fitness Induction Stat Sheet to find out where you stand in terms of maintaining a healthy weight.

http://www.mediafire.com/?tv9zbl9dgll

 

B01 Why Being Overweight Is So Dangerous

Obesity is the catalyst of several medical conditions: Sydrome "X" (diabetes mellitus type 2, high blood pressure, high blood cholesterol, and triglyceride levels) which leads to congestive heart failure, enlarged heart and its associated arrhythmias and dizziness, cor pulmonale, varicose veins, pulmonary embolism, polycystic ovarian syndrome (PCOS), menstrual disorders, infertility, gastroesophageal reflux disease (GERD), fatty liver disease, cholelithiasis (gallstones), hernia, colorectal cancer, urinary incontinence, glomerulopathy, hypogonadism (male), breast cancer (female), uterine cancer (female), stillbirth, increased insulin resistance, dyspnea, obstructive sleep apnea, hypoventilation syndrome, Pickwickian syndrome, asthma, hyperuricemia (which predisposes to gout), immobility, osteoarthritis, low back pain, stroke, meralgia paresthetica, headache, carpal tunnel syndrome, dementia, kidney failure, stretch marks, acanthosis nigricans, lymphedema, cellulitis, carbuncles, intertrig and joint damage.

  • Destruction of the body's "hormonal harmony": Obesity causes insulin resistance which means that your insulin doesn't work the way it's supposed to. Your pancreas tries to compensate by secreting more insulin, but after a while it gets exhausted and you develop diabetes. Aromatisation of testosterone to estrogen in fat tissue is a undesirable side effect. Fat filtration will also cause the endocrine (hormone producing- insulin, glucagon, and somatostatin) part of the pancreas to respond poorly to hormones, and your natural production suffers as a result.
  • Fat tissue produces different forms of identified and unidentified �toxic� substances that have a terrible effect on different regulatory systems in the body, which results in poor regulation of blood pressure (increase) and cholesterol (increase). This predisposes for filled arteries in the heart and brain (heart attack, stroke), by accumulation of oxidised LDL-cholesterol in the artery walls that when absorbing chalk swells up and breaks.
  • Fat tissue inhibits different parts of the immune system, both directly and indirectly, due to inhibition of the signalling roads between immune cells. Since your immune system fights cancer cells, the risk for cancer and inflammatory diseases (rheumatoid arthritis, chronic obtrustive pulmonary disease, osteoarthritis) increase drastically.
  • Fat is not limited to the subcutaneous fat you see in the mirror. If your obesity reaches a certain threshold the fat itself will 'float' out into your internal organs and start storing itself in your liver, heart, intestines and even muscles. This leads to reduced organ function.
  • The obese carry a significant amount of weight, while the knuckles, joints, muscles and tendons often are severely undertrained and can't handle it. This leads to premature wearing and damages the skeletal and connective tissue.


Summarized: Obesity will wind you, crush your joints, make you unfuckable and infertile and will eventually slowly and painfully lead to diseases that will kill you.

A02 I'm Skinny, I want to Gain Weight (Weight Gain)

If you want to gain weight you need to eat food. I know, I know, you've heard it before. But if you're not packing down at a MINIMUM 3,000 calories as a male to gain weight you're not eating enough. When you are extraordinarily skinny you can eat like shit. It's unhealthy, and you can read other threads about "dirty" and "clean" weight gain (I'm trying to keep these parts relatively short since it's easier to fix underweight than it is over) but for a short period of time when you are stick-figure like thin you just need to get into calorie heavy food. Whatever you're eating now- add a double cheeseburger every day. If you're still not gaining weight, add peanut butter. Up your bodyfat percentage slightly if you're incredibly thin and you'll have more energy in the gym, which will lead to more progress both in and out of it.

A03 Exercise

-Exercise determines HOW you gain or lose weight, and your body composition (fat:lean mass) generally. You can diet down to, say, 120 pounds. But do you want to be 120 pounds of lean, or 120 pounds of gross, flabby loser? Exercise dictates this outcome.

-Exercise burns calories, which makes it easier to lose weight in conjunction with diet.

-Exercise promotes strength and wellness. It conditions your body, your heart, increases the efficacy of your central nervous system and neuromuscular junctions, relieves stress and depression, helps to control blood pressure and can help to fix poor posture.

So exercise makes it easier to lose weight, and plays a big role in the composition of your body. There are two main kinds of exercise, cardiovascular (aka cardio, aerobic) and weight lifting (aka weights, anaerobic, lifting, resistance training, etc.)

Cardio � Any type of exercise that sustains an elevated heart rate consistently for a long period of time, such as running, cycling, or elliptical machine

Weightlifting � Anything involving resistance. There is a significant difference between free weights (dumbbells, barbells not on a machine, etc) and nautilus/smith machines, and we'll touch on later.

Cardio vs. Weights

For most people, meeting their fitness goals requires that they do some of both, not one or the other.

I'm going to start with the case for weight lifting, because its seems to have the most misconceptions associated with it.

-Are you trying to lose weight? Lift weights. Lifting burns tons of calories, increases EPOC (Excess Post-Exercise Oxygen Consumption, how many calories you burn in the hours/days after exercise) and lifting weights while dieting will cause you to retain more muscle and lose more fat than just diet and/or cardio. Because the name of the game when it comes to not looking awful is FAT LOSS, not weight loss. Do you want to be that guy who loses lots of weight and still looks like that skinny fat guy George Michael fucked in a forest? I don't think so.

-Are you just trying to �tone up�? Lift weights. �Toning� is kind of a nonsense term, because you don�t actually �tone� anything. You can only lose fat and gain muscle, and lifting weights helps you do both, by burning calories and promoting muscle growth. Like I said before, you get huge by eating huge, not lifting weights; lifting just determines how much of your weight is muscle vs. fat.

-Are you a woman? Lift weights, because all the other benefits still apply to you. The section On Bullshit: for Women explains misconceptions about this.

Lifting weights also makes you stronger than cardio, increases bone density and strength (not kidding, have your grandfather do deadlifts) and will do more than almost anything to make you look good naked.

But what about cardio? For one thing, it burns lots of calories. But cardio is also good for everyone because it improves your overall endurance and ability to exert yourself over an extended period. As the name implies, it also improves cardiovascular conditioning; that is to say your heart and the surrounding tissue and arteries. Basically, your ability to perform pretty much any kind of physical activity is helped by being in good cardiovascular health, and it makes it less likely that you will eventually die from your heart exploding.

My suggestion is to alternate weights and cardio, for instance doing 3 days of weights, 2 days of cardio, and taking the other 2 days off. Doing both on the same day tends to cause one or the other to suffer from reduced effort, and generally burns people out. If you absolutely must do both on the same day, try to seperate it by atleast 8 hours.

B03 On : Bullshit

Three words about cardio: only intensity matters. If your goal is fat loss (as opposed to general cardiovascular health), 3 hours running slowly on a treadmill will not help you as much as 20 minutes of high intensity interval training doing sprints on a track. There is more discussion of this in other threads.

I'm going to focus on weight lifting, though.

So, the general feeling is machines are safer than free weights, right? Well, sure. If you're afraid of controlling free weights. There's also a greater chance you'll fuck something up if you don't know what you're doing with free weights, since the purpose of machines is to control the movements.

Problem is, you control free weights every second of every day. The groceries, carrying something up stairs, bending over to pick something up, moving a chair. Your arms are free weights, your legs are free weights, everything they move is a free weight. There is no machine to control the movement unnaturally, your body moves the way it wants to. Opening a door is about the closest you will come to a controlled, 'mechanized' action. Anything that is not bolted to something else is a free weight: including you.

You have an incredibly complex musculature as a human. The shoulder girdle is the most complex area of them all because of all the motions that are required of it. Fingers bend and straighten the same as your knees and your elbows. Your shoulder moves everywhere. The ankle, the neck and the wrist are similar to the shoulder girdle, but none of them are as intricate, or as fragile. None of them are used as often as the shoulder girdle, either.

So let's say you do side raises with cables and that's it. Or machine flies. You're working very little muscles within the shoulder girdle, and not activating the entirety of it. Do you know what you're doing?

You're creating muscle imbalances.

Why is this bad?

Stand up. Yes, out of your computer chair, I know it's difficult. And bend over. Doesn't matter if you squat down, doesn't matter if you just bend at the waist. Touch the floor. If you squat, you'll feel your quads and hamstrings, and if you bend from the waist you'll feel your quads and hamstrings activating anyway to stabilize you. Maybe touching the floor from the waist position required you to extend your shoulder a little, and you felt it in your deltoid.

That movement requires almost the entirety of your musculature to perform. And you're isolating muscles in the gym. Do you see why this is a problem? What happens when the quads are so much more dominant than the hamstrings and you try to carry something heavy? The quads signal to the brain that they can handle the load, but the hamstrings can't. Those muscle imbalances: they lead to castastrophic injuries. Almost every "blown out back" you'll personally hear about happening to relatives or your friends parents comes from something mundane. By not engaging the entirety of your musculature in resistance exercise you are effectively attempting to "min/max" it. It doesn't work when you're trying to build a base level of strength. There's a reason firefighters have such ridiculously strong backs and your uncle Fred managed to blow his out by bending over to pick up the paper.

So this takes us to the big three. The three exercises all powerlifters perform in competition. The deadlift, the bench press and the squat. You probably think deadlifts fuck up your back (you might not even know what they are), the bench press you more than likely already do on a machine and the squat, god knows, is dangerous for your knees.

I'm not going to give you an essay on this, but I'll list some reasons why this is horseshit. Starting with the deadlift: you only injure your back often if you have a weak back. What is one of the primary exercises athletes use for full-body strength? The deadlift. What is the motion firefighters and dockworkers and strongmen competitors use to pick heavy things off the ground? Bend the legs, head forward and back up with a slight arch, grab with the arms, lift off with the legs and straighten out the back so you're standing regularly. The deadlift.

There is a reason that flabby middle-aged men who look like they've never lifted more than 75 pounds and middle-aged women and just-certified-today Bally's personal trainers tell you the deadlift is dangerous, while strength and conditioning coaches, athletes, physical therapists, GOOD chiropractors and doctors who focus on sports medicine tell you it's great for you. The reason is that one group is a bunch of god damn morons and the other isn't.

How about the squat? If you get in a squatting position with hundreds of pounds and only move a few inches down, yeah, that's quite the strain on the knee. What happens when you drop to parallel, though, or you go below the knee? The load transitions. The load transitions off the knee, and on the way up the knee only provides flexion. Once the knee is below or at the quad, the load moves onto the quad. The quadricep is designed to take load. There is no problem there.

You probably already do the bench press, if you're male, anyway. Therefore, I have nothing to say to you. There was a book written called "Starting Strength". If you care for the science (really, the physics more than anything) behind the deadlift and the squat, and why doing it and doing them properly is arguably more beneficial than anything else you should probably pick it up.

C03 On : Bullshit for Women

With very few exceptions, the principles of diet and exercise are the same for men and women. I recognize this is hard for women to accept, especially if you have little understanding of the science behind exercise.

The truth is, women can't gain muscle at anywhere near the rate of men, no matter how hard they lift. Men naturally produce testosterone (you, of course, produce estrogen,), and the fact that we have 60% more upperbody muscle mass on average (yes, even the lanky little nerd you know has significantly more potential for growth in the upperbody) means you will never become "big and bulky" if you don't use growth hormones and steroids.

Getting huge doesn't just happen to men, forget women. Every female fitness magazine you read is garbage. It's not hyperbole. Every single one. They are bad. Men's Health isn't really highly regarded, but you are honestly way better off reading it than you are pretty much any other fitness magazine geared towards your sex. They fixate on things like spot reduction (a myth discussed below) and bosu balls (CORE TRAINING OH EM GEE), light little weights and hours spent doing cardio.

Light weights don't do anything for you but build muscle... Slowly. You might say the point of this is to avoid you getting big and bulky like a female bodybuilder. You, as a woman, genetically have a "cap" on muscle mass. You will NOT get big. What's the point then of reaching your potential slow (or really, never reaching your potential at all) when you could reach it faster with heavy weights?

Heavy weights actually cause the bone to become more dense. Bone density is a major issue for women. Heavy weights build muscle, muscle requires more calories to maintain than fat, therefore muscle increases your metabolism.

Every woman in Hollywood who is considered "hot" does resistance training. They do intervals in cardio. Genetically you are predisposed against ever getting large without the help of chemistry. Do not worry about big weights making you big. They will build muscle, which will burn fat faster, help with cellulite, increase bone density, give you 'shape' and they're the only thing that can fix flabby arms for women over 30.

Im a girl!!!!
http://www.stumptuous.com/cms/index.php

im a girl and I get "bulky" when I look at the weights
you are not growing at the rate you think you are, restrict your food inntake if you are afraid of growing out of your skin(you wont) http://www.stumptuous.com/cms/index.php

im a girl and this is targeted to skinny guys, im just trying to tone up my abs or whatever
Men and women are bodies work the same way, except that guys have a natural potential far beyond that of any girl. use the same routines/diet programs a guy would use. http://www.stumptuous.com/cms/index.php

D03 Exercise List

Olympic Variations
The Bear http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.d...hydra?id=459657
Clean from Hang http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Oly.../HangClean.html
Clean with Jerk http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Oly...eanAndJerk.html
DB Snatch http://www.t- nation.com/readTopic.do?id=459442
Snatch http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Oly...fts/Snatch.html

Deadlift Variations
Deadlift http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Glu...BBDeadlift.html
King Deadlift http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.d...hydra?id=460856
Snatch Grip Deadlift http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.d...hydra?id=459280
Stiff-Leg Deadlift http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Glu...egDeadlift.html
Sumo Deadlift http://www.t- nation.com/readTopic....hydra?id=524650

Squat Variation
Back Squat http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Qua...BFullSquat.html
Box Squat http://www.t- nation.com/readTopic....hydra?id=459391
Front Squat http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Qua...FrontSquat.html
Hack Squat http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Qua...BHackSquat.html
Single Leg Split Squat http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Glu...SplitSquat.html
Zercher Squat http://www.t- nation.com/readTopic....hydra?id=510730

Calves
Donkey Calf Raise http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Gas...yCalfRaise.html
Leg Press Calf Raise http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Gas...5CalfPress.html
Seated Calf Raise http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Sol...dCalfRaise.html
Standing Calf Raise http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Gas...gCalfRaise.html

Additional Leg Exercises
Glute Ham Raise http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/renegade10.htm
Good Morning http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Glu...oodMorning.html
Hip Bridge http://athletics.dartmouth.edu/faci.../lowerbody.html
Leg Curl http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Ham...ingLegCurl.html
Leg Press http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Qua...45LegPress.html
Lunge http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Quadriceps/BBLunge.html
One Leg Back Extension http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.d...hydra?id=459279
Overhead Lunge http://www.t-nation.com/findArticle.do%3bjsessionid=3FD3146E6585D846B510E58182A77ED9.titan?article=04-017-training
Pull Through http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.d...hydra?id=488461
Rear Lunge http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises...BRearLunge.html
Step Up http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Qua...s/BBStepUp.html
Zercher Good Morning http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.d...hydra?id=459875

Vertical Pull
Cable Pulldown http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Lat...ntPulldown.html
Chin Up http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Lat...handChinup.html
Parallel Grip Chin Up http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/charles4.htm
Pull Up http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Lat...i/WtPullup.html
Sternum Chin Up http://www.t- nation.com/readTopic....hydra?id=459477
Towel/Rope Chin http://www.t- nation.com/readTopic....hydra?id=459798
Upright Row http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises...UprightRow.html

Vertical Press
Bent Press http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.do?id=459681
Front Raise http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Del...FrontRaise.html
Push Press http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises.../PushPress.html
Scott Press http://www.larryscott.com/bio/newsl...1october_23.htm
See Saw Press http://bodybuilding.com/fun/exercises.php?Real=%3c=+7&start=10&Name=&MainMuscle=Shoulders&Equip=Dumbbell&Isolation=&order=Name
Shoulder Press http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Del...itaryPress.html

Horizontal Pull
Bent Over Row http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Bac...entOverRow.html
Cable Row http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Bac...BSeatedRow.html
Supine Row http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Bac...TSupineRow.html
T Bar Row http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises...entOverRow.html
Renegade Row http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/mahler73.htm
Reverse Push Up http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Bac...TSupineRow.html

Horizontal Press
Bench Press http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Pec...BenchPress.html
Cable Crossover http://bodybuilding.com/fun/exercises.php?Real=%3c=+7&Name=&MainMuscle=Chest&Equip=Cable&Isolation=&order=Name
Dips http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Pec...WtChestDip.html
Fly http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Pec...rnal/DBFly.html
Pull Over http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Lat...rmPullover.html
Push Up http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Pec...l/WtPushup.html
Telle Fly http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.d...hydra?id=460320

Bicep
Cable Curl http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Biceps/CBCurl.html
Barbell Curl http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Biceps/BBCurl.html
DB Curl http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Biceps/DBCurl.html
Lying Curl http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.do?id=460030
Preacher Curl http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Bra...eacherCurl.html

Triceps
Cable Press Down http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Triceps/CBPushdown.html
Close Grip Bench Press http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Tri...BenchPress.html
Floor Press http://www.weightliftingdiscussion....rbellpress.html
Lying Tricep Extension http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Tri...yingTriExt.html
Overhead Tricep Extension http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Triceps/BBTriExt.html

Abdominal
Cable Kneeling Chop http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Rec...lingCrunch.html
Cable Woodchopper http://www.chekinstitute.com/articles.cfm?select=12
Decline Bench Sit Up http://bodybuilding.com/fun/exercises.php?Real=%3c=+7&Name=&MainMuscle=Abdominals&Equip=BodyOnly&Isolation=&order=Name
Dragon Flag http://www.evfit.com/200207.htm
Hanging Leg Raise http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Rec...egHipRaise.html
Hanging Pike http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.do?id=459262
Jacknife Sit Up http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Rec...KnifeSitUp.html
Rollout http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.do?id=459658
Russian Twist http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.d...hydra?id=459670
Saxon Side Bends http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.d...hydra?id=459681

Exercise Complex
Combo Extension Pull http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.d...hydra?id=675263
T Push Up http://www.t-nation.com/findArticle...04-003-training
Iron Cross http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/exe...Name=Iron+Cross

Postural Correction
Cable External Rotation http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Inf...alRotation.html
Cuban Rotation http://www.t- nation.com/readTopic.do?id=459930
Face Pull http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.d...hydra?id=459846
Kneeling X Pull http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.d...titan?id=461579
Poor Mans Shoulder Horn http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.d...hydra?id=459460
Rear Lateral Raise http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Del...teralRaise.html
Scapular Wall Slide http://www.t- nation.com/readTopic....hydra?id=459846
Scare Crow http://www.t- nation.com/readTopic....hydra?id=459846
Side Lying External Rotation http://familydoctor.org/265.xml
Straight Arm Cable Pressdown http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Lat...rmPulldown.html
Wall Push Up http://www.uhseast.com/172698.cfm

A04 Nutrition

Before going into the nitty gritty of calorie counting and so forth, you can improve your health a great deal by changing the staples of your diet and your patterns of eating. This sounds like a big deal, but is actually pretty simple and relatively painless. I�m not going to tell you to eat tree bark and fungus, for instance. That kind of extremist dieting is for morons.

First, the obvious stuff: fast food and soda. As in, cut that stuff out.

Fast food is almost always extremely unhealthy, high in saturated fat and trans fat, very calorie-dense, and should thus be avoided by everyone. The occasional burger is harmless in the grand scheme of things, but if fast food is a staple of your diet, cut it out or you will almost certainly never accomplish a damn thing fitness-wise. You may have read about some bodybuilder dude eating McDonalds for a month. Guess what? He was already a fucking bodybuilder. You can't get away with that.

Soda is the other thing that should be eliminated by everyone. Soda is extremely calorie-dense, has no nutritional value, and for various reasons you shouldn�t be dumping massive amounts of simple sugars into your system. There is debate over if diet soda is neutral or still bad for you; my suggestion is to limit that garbage, too. DRINK WATER! If you absolutely need something else, milk and tea is acceptable, but it's still ingesting liquid calories. Getting calories from liquids is STUPID.

Many people stop being fatasses just by cutting out soda, dropping fast food and quitting their peanut butter M&Ms addiction. Aside from being made of unhealthy ingredients, fast food and soda are so awful because they make it easy to ingest a tremendous amount of calories without actually filling you up. Having some garbage is fine a few times a month and won't turn you into Captain Poopsock with 17 level 60 characters in WoW, but for too many people who are going to be reading this it is their diet.

What to Eat

Your dietary staples should include:

Lean animal protein sources, including but not limited to:

-Most turkey and chicken in general, especially if it is skinless. Turkey and chicken breasts especially. Contrary to dumb internet rumors, going to the deli counter to have them slice up a roasted or smoked turkey breast for you is also fine.

-Ground turkey, chicken, beef or pork that is >90% lean

-Virtually all forms of fish, even the fattier fishes are very good for you. Canned fish is still often packed in oil, however, which should be avoided.

-Whole eggs. The unhealthiness of whole eggs is a myth; contrary to past assumptions, they have no impact on heart disease at all.

 

http://jama.ama-assn.org/cgi/content/abstract/281/15/1387

 

The main reason for this is that cholesterol in food does not impact the actual cholesterol level in your blood; almost all your cholesterol is made in your liver, based mainly on your saturated fat & trans fat consumption.

Whole grains, including but not limited to:
-Whole wheat bread, bagels, rolls, etc.
-Whole wheat pasta
-Brown rice
-Oatmeal
-Whole grain breakfast cereals like Cheerios and Grape Nuts

Virtually all fruits and vegetables, including beans and dry-roasted nuts.

Healthy fats like olive oil (for sauces, dressings & low-temperature cooking) and canola oil (for high-temperature cooking), and Omega-3 rich fishes.

Low fat dairy products like skim milk, low fat/nonfat yogurt and reduced fat cheeses. Just be aware that some �reduced fat� cheese are still relatively high in saturated fat.

How Often to Eat

Most people eat 2-3 meals a day. Ideally, you want to eat however many calories your body needs in 5-6 smaller meals over the day. This tends to keep you from becoming too hungry at any one meal and overeating. Also, long periods between meals tend to cause your metabolism to slow down, reducing the calories your body consumes to maintain itself. The Thermic Effect of Food (TEF) is another way your body burns calories, and the more you eat the more calories you burn. That's why splitting what you already eat up into multiple meals promotes weight loss.


 

B04 Why Severe Calorie Restriction (Low Calorie Diets) is Unhealthy

Weight loss is largely a matter of reducing calories and increasing activity. So if 500 fewer calories a day than you need to maintain is good, 2000 less is better, right? Not really. Because below a certain threshold, your body thinks you are one of those starving refugees on TV, and does a bunch of things that hurt your long-term weight loss.

Read that again: starving is a bad way to lose weight. This isn't an after-school program about the dangers of eating disorders, it's just a fact. Eating too little can be as bad as eating too much.

Why this is so:

-Your metabolism slows down. Your body will burn fewer calories to maintain itself, primarily drawing first from the glycogen stores, and you will feel awful. This is horrible for weight loss because as soon as you quit starving yourself, you�ll gain weight fast because your metabolism has bottomed out.
-You will lose muscle more than fat. Your body will naturally try to conserve fat and cannibalize muscle if it thinks it is outright starving. This is bad because your real goal is FAT loss, not weight loss. This is how you have people who lose 100 pounds and reach their "ideal" weight, but still look like shit with their shirt off. Also, losing muscle slows your metabolism down even further, amplifying the giant horrible rebound effect once you quit starving yourself.
-Your life will be a living hell. You'll eventually feel horrible, the diet will fail, and you�ll binge eat and regain everything you lost, plus interest. Food is fuel, and that fuel is what powers the brain.

You want to run a clear-cut, but tolerable calorie deficit to sustain weight loss over the long term. Very obese people may be put on very low calorie diets by their doctor, but these are medically supervised and designed for people who need to lose weight now or suffer severe health problems.

More info on bad dieting:
http://exrx.net/FatLoss/WhyDietsFail.html
http://www.t-nation.com/readTopic.do?id=1392804

For the Ladies

Women�s nutrition is about 99% the same as men's. Yes, that's a made up number, but you get the idea. Some exceptions to note:

-It goes without saying that you need fewer calories than the typical man of your height. A side effect of this is that nutrition labels for a 2,000 calorie diet are actually closer to your values than a man�s.
-Make sure you are getting enough iron. Iron deficiency anemia is very common in young women. Be aware that a woman�s RDA for iron is 50% higher than that for men (15mg vs 10mg), and USRDA numbers should generally be considered bare-minimums to prevent malnutrition, not ideal targets for optimum performance.
-It is generally accepted that women need more calcium and vitamin D, because they are more prone to osteoporosis. However, keep in mind that if you really overdo this, you can get kidney stones, which are really painful.
-Folic acid is a highly recommended supplement for pregnant women.

 

http://www.webmd.com/content/Article/94/103068.htm?pagenumber=2

A05 Body Composition Q & A

[B05] I Want Abs

Having visible abs has very little to do with doing abdominal exercises, and a whole lot to do with how much body fat you have. Ab exercises are irrelevant if your abdominals are obfuscated by layers of fat. If you do weighted ab exercises you're going to increase the size of your abdominal muscles- UNDERNEATH THE FAT. It will just push the fat farther out. You will look fatter. Do you understand? To see abs, you must get your bodyfat down. Bodyfat melts away, out come the abs. It's like they bloom. Once you aren't a fat disgusting pig.

[C05] I Want To Lose Fat In/Around <Insert Body Area/Part> (Spot Reduction)

You cannot spot reduce. You can spot gain (it's stupid unless you're reaching an intermediate-advanced level), but you can't spot reduce. Bodyfat is bodyfat. For some people it 'congregates' more in certain areas (men traditionally around the stomach and chest, women traditionally around the hips and thighs), but it's a total fat level that you're carrying. Fat is not in any one place, it is not muscle. It travels. If you lose fat in one place (the only way to do this is through surgery, basically) the fat from the rest of your body will fill that area back in.

[D05] Turning Fat Into Muscle

It is physiologically impossible to turn fat into muscle. You've probably heard it thousands of times: it is impossible. It does not happen. There is not a process in the body that can convert fat to muscle. You can lose fat and gain muscle at the same time, but fat does not turn into muscle. Fat is fat. You burn it off.

[E05] TONED DOES NOT MEAN WHAT YOU THINK IT MEANS

When people say they want to get "toned", they mean they want to lose bodyfat or gain muscle. Toned is referring to muscle tone, and you only see muscle tone if you A) have any appreciable muscle mass, B) don't have layers of fat over that appreciable muscle mass. To "tone" is way of saying you simply want to increase the visibility of your muscle tone. Stop using this word incorrectly, it drives everyone insane.


A06 Supplements and You

You should know, for the most part, what the definition of supplementation is.  This is going to be short, because there are going to be way more resources that will go into more detail than here. The most common, and such.

Multivitamins:
Pros: Makes up for a shitty diet
Helps with deficiencies you might not know you have

Cons: If you already have a solid diet (two servings of vegetables a day at a MINIMUM, various protein sources, healthy fats) it's basically pissing away money
If you already have a high concentration of something in your diet it can push you past an amount your body can tolerate

Fatty Acids: Fish Oil/Cod Oil/Flaxseed Oil/Omega 3's/DHA EPA CLA:
Pros: Helps with inflammation, your mood, fat loss, omega3:omega6 balance

Cons: At a certain level it may cause blood thinning. It hasn't really been observed at all up to 15 grams (more than you'll probably ever take), and no one is sure when it starts becoming dangerous. If you're already on blood thinners check with your doctor.

Fiber:
Pros: Helps with cholesterol levels, intestine regulation

Cons: Uh, it makes you shit? So if you shit a lot and you're not constipated, don't take it or you will shit more.

Creatine:
Pros: Increases anaerobic threshold (increased volume, better recovery)

Cons: Can cause water weight retention, not really all that needed for beginners, people are stupid about how much to take/when to take it/what to take it with

Caffine/Yohimbine:
Pros: Natural fat burners, energy without the crashing sugars cause

Cons: Take too much and your heart explodes. Probably.

Branched-Chain Amino Acids (BCAAs):
Pros: Stops catabolisation, better muscle recovery when taken after/before workouts

Cons: If you're reading this you don't need them.

Male Fashion FAQ : Fitting in with the normals

Let's face the facts.  Many of us on this site and in the counterculture don't really understand traditional fashion very well.  Anime t-shirts, combat boots, and sunglasses at night may work very well for you in a Comic Book convention but they will fail you miserably if you are out trying to recruit young professionals from a local university for some nefarious scheme or another.  The ability to fit into any environment isn't just a handy skill to have, it's vital for your survival in the modern world.  Looking sharp AND not calling attention to yourself is a hell of a card to put in your deck of tools, and nothing is worse than seeing a 6 month operation come crashing down due to the automatic negitive stigma against the clothes of your crew.

 

The most important thing to remember about fashion and style is that there are no rules, only guidelines. Style is a completely individual matter which depends on individual tastes, although some things are more or less universally agreed upon. No matter what you think, somebody will think differently. However, the guidelines that do exist come from years and years of experimentation, collaboration, agreement and disagreement (and often catfights) among people who generally know what they're doing, and it is ill-advised to try to break all the rules right away. You are not obligated to follow anyone's suggestions, just as no one is obligated to respect you for the way you dress.

Chapter 1: The Basics

What should I wear?

No one can tell you this. You have to learn for yourself by watching others and shopping until you see things you like. But, for starters, get yourself some decent jeans, sneakers, t-shirts, polos, and collared shirts because they look good on everyone.

What clothes should every man have in his wardrobe?
This is by no means a definitive list, if you have additions please let me know.
-- Jeans. Ever since men have been men, jeans have been jeans.
-- Khakis. Flat front. Only you can know if you need stain guard.
-- T-shirts. Sometimes you are hungover and buttons are hard!
-- Polo Shirts. For yachting on the cape.
-- 2 or 3 casual blazers.
-- One fall and one winter jacket.
-- Sneakers. You know, for sneaking.
-- One black belt, one brown belt.
-- One pair of dress shoes in black and one in brown.
-- One black suit, one navy blue or charcoal gray suit, one lighter colored suit in lightweight cotton or linen for summer.
-- 2 or 3 white dress shirts, 4 or 5 light and dark solid-color dress shirts.
-- 8 to 10 ties in complementary colors, simple stripes or check pattern
-- One black tie. One tie with your favorite cartoon character on it.
-- Sunglasses, a nice watch, and a leather wallet.

How can I find clothes that fit me?
Wearing well-fitting clothes will not make you noticeable, but wearing ill-fitting clothing will make you stand out. Usually the idea is to wear something as small as possible without being too small. This may be hard to accept at first, because it's not as "comfy" as wearing tents, but it's important. T-shirts should not billow around your waist or arms, nor should they hang past your pockets. Pants should not require a tight belt to stay on, and the cuff (at the bottom) should rest on your shoe and maybe even bunch up a bit. Clothing should never "droop" or sag off your body.

 

http://imagesocket.com/view/T_Shirt_313b.jpg

 

These men are wearing t-shirts which are too large for them (random google image). See how the t-shirt billows and takes its own shape, rather than hugging their body? See how the sleeves hang to the elbow, shapeless? See how it bunches and bags around the waist? This is bad! No matter how clever your t-shirt is or how much you love it, if it fits like this your time together is over.
Here's a good rule of thumb: Look on their biceps. See that stitching that comes together in the shape of a + sign? That seam should always fall right on the very top of your shoulder. If it falls on your arm or bicep, the shirt is too large. If it falls on your collarbone, the shirt is too small.

 

http://imagesocket.com/view/2K_MS104_V1_BIG50b.jpg

 

This is an awesome t-shirt, but that's beside the point. It fits this model perfectly. Notice that it is hugging his torso without being skin-tight. Ditto the arms. The seam I mentioned before is perched right on the top of his shoulderbone. It shows off his body by being form-fitting and slim, but not garishly tight. Even if your body is not perfect, this is what you want! This is what you are going for!

As far as jeans go, there is a lot more variation in how jeans should "fit." If you are new to fashion, stick with a straight leg or very slight bootcut. What that means is that if you notice the bootcut before you get the jeans on, get rid of them.

 

What color clothes should I buy?
This is a very individual issue because it depends on your skin tone and eye and hair color. Luckily, there's an easy way: Try things on. Go to stores and try on everything you can find. See what colors look good on you and what don't. Here's a short guide:
If you have pale skin and light hair: White will make you look washed out, black will make you look pale. Grey will look awesome. Lighter and darker blues and greens (think sky to navy), bright colors and some pastels. Avoid earth tones and saturated hues like burgundy or deep purple.
If you have pale skin and dark hair: Pastels and light colors (yeah yeah gay whatever), bright colors, and some darker colors to contrast your skin and complement your hair. If you have red hair, don't wear green. black will make you look sick. Try orange, it's a pleasant surprise to most people, as well as brown. Again, no earth tones, but try some maroon or saturated color.
If you have dark skin: Rich colors (deep orange, red, green, blue) and earth tones (brown) to complement your skin color. Avoid pastels, wear lots of white and charcoal.
If you are Asian: I've never figured this out! Sorry! And good luck, there's lots of info out there for you.

What sort of clothing shouldn't I wear?
There are a million fashion don'ts, but here are some to think about : No leather pants, no spandex, no gold chains, avoid plaid until you are more comfortable with fashion, no flannel, no metallic or textured shirts, no anime t-shirts, no Tevas, no slogan t-shirts, no hemp necklaces, nothing with any rip or stain on it (even if it is your favorite shirt you throw that rag away). This list will be added to.
Trench coats are very appropriate for businessmen and look good over a suit, but are usually out of place otherwise.

But I want to wear anime shirts!
Fine, but don't pretend people won't judge you for it. If you want to dress well and impress people, you have to accept a little judgment.

If I can't wear a trench coat, what should I wear in the winter?
The first thing to remember is that most people look bulky and misshapen in the winter. To look really good, the key is to maintain the correct shape of a human body and not look too padded, which often means wearing slimmer, tighter winter jackets. You may spend a ton of money on a good jacket. That's okay, because a high quality jacket will look good and keep you warm and last forever.
Pea Coats are my personal favorite. They're warm as hell, double-breasted and very classy-looking. When worn with a colorful scarf and some black leather gloves, everyone looks classy!

http://imagesocket.com/view/5810m_pea_coat_coats0b3.jpg

 

They are sometimes expensive but often available at thrift stores for less than $20 if you're lucky. HOWEVER: many clueless nerds buy a pea coat and expect to look classy instantly. Pea coats don't just look good on their own! They need to be the correct size and worn with the correct accessories. If you're wearing a collared shirt you can wear the coat without a scarf, but if you are wearing a t-shirt or something similar, for gods sake YOU NEED A SCARF. Wearing a beautiful formal coat over a sloppy t-shirt is very grating on the eyes.
Other overcoats are similarly styled and look very dashing also. This picture comes from GQ so take it with a grain of salt (i.e. try it without the hoodie), but here are two very nice-looking knee-length overcoats:

 

 http://imagesocket.com/view/00008f352.jpg

 

As a rule, this sort of coat should hang between your thigh and your knee. A coat should never come further down than your knee unless you're going for the vampire look.

If you live in a warmer climate or a pea coat isn't your thing, consider an M65 jacket like the one Surrender is rocking in this photo:

http://imagesocket.com/view/veowfa2bc.jpg

 

These can be found all over the place. Spiewak, Express, H&M, and Army/Navy stores often carry them (more on this later). Buy a slimmer, non-bulky jacket. If it has a lining, take it out and get the smallest size that fits. Then put the lining back in. I know this sounds harsh, but like I said, slim jackets are the key to looking good in the winter.

Additionally, you will want to invest in 4-5 scarves and wear a different one every day. Everyone loves scarves, and they are sold everywhere. You will be hard pressed to look bad in one, unless you fuck it up. Typically winter coats will come in dark, solid colors, so lively-colored and patterned scarves provide an accent. Here are some examples of good scarves for men:

http://imagesocket.com/view/burberry1ca.jpg

 http://imagesocket.com/view/sr_janmu_mens_scarf_woodlandhaze8a0.jpg

http://imagesocket.com/view/Stripe142b.jpg

Get some subdued black leather gloves and a simple knit hat unless you're a kooky enough guy to wear mittens.

How about leather jacket?

Every complete wardrobe includes "THE" leather jacket. That jacket will be different for everyone else. You might find it at a thrift store, or it might be a sultry designer piece that you have to blow $1k on, but the idea of a leather jacket is: get a very, very nice one that you will be able to give to your kids.

Leather jackets can be incredibly hit or miss. Considering the cost and thoughtfulness involved, it's probably best to wait a while before purchasing one. If you already have one, post a picture and give us a look!

Now that I know how to stay warm in the winter, how can I stay cool in the summer?
Many fashionistas bemoan summer as the sartorial dog days of shorts and t-shirts day in day out for months on end. To stay cool, there are two options: Wear skimpier clothing or wear looser clothing made of lighter materials. Most men retire to shorts, which often make us look like chicken-legged wonders. Human legs are usually more slender than the rest of your body, so why are most shorts designed to be boxy and loose? I don't know. If you are going to wear shorts, here are some good ones:

http://imagesocket.com/view/TROV_MP14_V4f95.jpg

http://imagesocket.com/view/MA_MP14_V1c99.jpg

http://imagesocket.com/view/0132_4771_204583.jpg

Cargo shorts are usually for the college crowd, but can be rocked at any age if you have athletic legs. Be sure to keep the pockets buttoned so they don't billow out. Plaid or seersucker shorts are great for younger guys (do your friends describe you as "offbeat" or "quirky?" consider plaid shorts!), but older guys will want to stick with plain front (no pleats!) relatively slim shorts in khaki, olive, or something else sort of subdued, which should break right around the knee. Some larger gents might want to avoid shorts because they don't hide weight well. Wear shorts with flip-flops or birkenstocks, or a mocassin or slip-on (no socks). For extra points, try a pair of Sperry Topsiders (google for it).
Alternatively, consider a pair of loose linen trousers or very light cotton pants, maybe even cuffed if you're at the beach or a barbecue or something. As far as other summerwear is concerned, look for "summerweight" t-shirts (which are thin and soft) or lighter collared shirts. Wear your clothing a bit looser in the summer because billowing clothing will help keep you cool.

What kind of swimsuit should I wear?
If you go to the beach and people are checking out your swimming suit, you're doing something wrong. Seriously though, a swimsuit is rarely used and very basic and almost anything goes. As long as it's not too huge or too small, pretty much anything goes (no speedos plzkthx).

What is a polo shirt?

http://imagesocket.com/view/served5f.jpg

A polo shirt (incidentally, this shirt fits very well). Note the collar (please do not pop this) and buttons (leave 2-3 unbuttoned depending on the number available and how confident you feel about your chest), and the fitted torso and arms (baggy arms are a no-no). Polos are typically 100% cotton. Some are very expensive (i.e. LaCoste, Penguin, a few others) Some are very cheap (H&M, Express, AA, or even Mossimo from Target). Too many will make you look way preppy, too few will make you look like you hate your parents. Snag a vintage LeTigre or Members Only from a thrift store for mad, mad props.

What is a collared shirt?
AKA Button-up, button-front, dress shirt, formal shirt, shirt, oxford shirt, button-down (incorrect, button-down refers to the collar). Although polos do have a collar, "collared shirt" typically refers to dress or casual shirts which have a collar and a row of buttons up the front of the shirt. This is the most versatile form of shirt available to men, from in-your-boxers casual to President's dinner formal. You should own at least 5-10 of these shirts or you are very ill-prepared for life.

Here are some formal shirts:

http://imagesocket.com/view/SPLCRE_236f.jpg

http://imagesocket.com/view/formal1fbb.JPG

Notice the reserved patterns and colors, sharp collars and quiet fabrics. Simple stripes or check pattern, one pocket, probably 100% cotton. Good for work, weddings, formal affairs, parties after college.

Here are some casual shirts:

http://imagesocket.com/view/88817L826.jpg

http://imagesocket.com/view/84329Lb98.jpg

Crazier fabrics, louder patterns and colors (OK not in those examples but you know what I mean), more details (like pockets, crazy buttons, embroidery)... when it comes to casual shirts, anything goes. Well, almost anything...

Here are some shirts you should not wear:

http://imagesocket.com/view/MP753MF_288md7f6.jpg

http://imagesocket.com/view/mens_casual_shirt759.jpg

http://imagesocket.com/view/Poster_21131da3.jpg

Starting to understand?
I'm not going to get into formalwear here because that deserves it's own FAQ. But that's the lowdown on shirts for dudes. You should have a few in light and dark colors and white for formal occasions, and as many casual shirts as you like. I have like 20 which I rotate through with blazing speed and style... yeehaw!


What is a t-shirt?
Get Out.

What is a V-neck/U-neck/crew-neck?
V-necks look like a 'V', U-necks look like a 'U' and crew necks look like every other t-shirt you've ever seen.

What kind of shoes should I get?
If you're looking at sneakers, here are some that are classic styles which look OK with more or less any "look."

Converse All-Star - AKA Chuck Taylor. Classic look, may get you mistaken for a hipster or middle-schooler.
Virtually unchanged in forever and available in every color under the rainbow.

Converse Jack Purcell - A higher-quality low-top from Converse. Many colors, more comfy, higher price.

Onitsuka Tiger Mexico66/Ultimate81 - Comfy, versatile, colorful running shoes with the tiger stripes. Look around, your most stylish friends already have some. Avoid the loud colors, get them on sale.

Puma Roma - Or Future Cat, or Basil, or Munich, or whatever. The bad news is they've been popular for years... the good news is, that's just because they look good. Won't turn heads, but definitely a solid shoe for the money. Any color or style under the rainbow.

Adidas Samba - Or Campus, or Original, or Campus, or whatever. They're classics, they look cool but not loud, and they go well with everything.

Adidas Stan Smith - A classic white shoe. Cool. It's generally a good idea to have at least one pair of all-white sneakers.

Vans Classic Slip-On - They come in lots of colors and patterns, like plaid and shit. Common territory of punks and skanks but they're still cool.

Nike Dunks - I don't know anything about Dunks other than that people like them and that they're as complicated on their own as the rest of fashion combined. If anyone wants to write about them, I'll put it here.

Where can I get all of these marvelous clothes that you are talking about?
There are lots of places! I won't get into jeans because those are covered in the Denim thread and that's a whole nother thing. But let's get started with brick and mortar stores:

American Apparel - They sell t-shirts, polos, and a bunch of other stuff in a million colors. The quality is generally pretty good, they are stylish.H&M - A favorite for cheap fashion basics. They have stores in most major cities, but no online shop. Sorry! If there's one near you, check it out. Google it for more info.
Express Men - Express offers graphic tees, polos, dress and casual shirts as well as ties, accessories, and sweaters. Their quality is OK but their prices are generally a bit much for my taste. Get what's on sale. Their "Producer" and "Director" pants are great slacks.
Barney's, Nordstrom, Saks, etc. - High-priced couture retailers. You will be overwhelmed during your first few trips. Try Nordstrom Rack or Saks Off Fifth if there's one near you: They sell all of the clearance items, generally high quality off-season merchandise for cheap.
Zara - Offers relatively low-price, medium-quality formalwear (suits, shirts, ties, etc). Probably a good place to get your first suit.
Department Stores - Sears, JC Penny, Macy's, and the like. These are good for basics (t-shirts, some casual collared shirts, polos, slacks) and occasionally have upper tier brands for lower prices, but they're hit or miss. Don't count on it.
Thrift Stores - Goodwill, Salvation Army, Value Village, Savers. Completely hit or miss. They will take up a lot of shopping time, but you can find some ridiculously good pieces for very very little money. Good luck!

I'm a shut in and I live in the middle of nowhere! Can I shop online?
Uhh... yeah. duh. But it's complicated as shit! And you never know if anything's going to fit you! So be careful. Here's a few places, which are all more or less the same to me.

BlueFly
Yoox
Revolve Clothing
KarmaLoop (Use Battle Cattle's repcode: CE5139, when ordering from karmaloop. You'll get 20% off the first time you use it.)
Zappos Use them for shoes! Free return shipping if it doesn't fit!

So, if I've never ever actually worn nice clothes before or I just lost a lot of weight, where should I start?
Well, congratulations, you're on the right track! A good way to start is to spend a day shopping at all of the stores you can find and LEAVE YOUR WALLET AT HOME! That way you can get a good handle on things without spending money. Don't be afraid to ask questions, take risks, and try things on. As long as you don't buy it, no harm no foul. The other goal here is to see what size you are and how you want clothes to fit.
Although it is much cheaper to shop on the internet, there are risks involved with sizing and stuff, so your first round of purchases should probably come from brick and mortar stores. If you have a H&M nearby, awesome, because all of these things can be had there. You can do it at Express too, but it's a bit more expensive and not as subdued. Failing that, try a nicer department store like Macy's. To start, try to get a few dress shirts, a few casual shirts, a blazer, a pair of sneakers, and a few tees or polos. Spend some time getting comfortable in these clothes. Your next round of purchases should be accessories like belts, shoes, scarves, gloves... even new underwear can make you feel better.


Eventually, when you are more comfortable with sizing, you can try to order online. Keep return policies in mind and understand that not everything will fit perfectly the first time.

 

 

 



 

 

Manuel's Amatuer Research Facility

Manuel's Amatuer Research Facility

 

This is the main page of my online, empower thyself, fitness sub-club and research program. If you have participated in the fitness club and would like to be one of my lab rats feel free to private message me. You will recieve the benefits of:

 

1. Free online personal training based on leading scientific research.

2. Hands on participation in a scientific double blinded research project.

3. Doing the world a service by creating a free acrurate fitness resource for the world.

 

There are a few people that I am particularly interested in studying and communicating with.

 

1. Those with Body fat percentages that suggest they have more then 100lbs of fat to lose.

2. Those who have a 'normal' body fat range who are interested in achieving a lower Body fat percentage of 5-7% for men or 10-12% for women.

3. Those that want to be athletes in the following fields, Running, Swimming, Body building, and Cycling.

4. Those who have an interest in research, especially if they have studied biology, medicine, or kinesiology.

 

Please PM me or email me at: Manuel.OKelly@gmail.com

 

Resources:

Manuel's Fitness Induction Sheet:

http://www.mediafire.com/?tv9zbl9dgll
 

 

 

Mens Suit FAQ : I look like I own the place.

The basics of shopping for a suit:

Particularly if you've got an event coming up that you need a suit for (the two most frequent being weddings or job interviews) my one piece of advice is START SHOPPING EARLY.

Finding a great fitting suit doesn't have to take a long time, but it shouldn't be done in the span of one night, one day, or even a few weeks. My rule: Start shopping for the suit AT LEAST a month and a half before your event, if not more like two or three months.

The longer you give yourself to find a suit, the better the fit, the quality, and price you’ll find. Plus, tailoring will factor into your time window, so don't think you can simply buy a suit and go.

Why buy an "expensive" suit versus a hunk of crap from Men's Warehouse?

Before I talk about the technical aspects of what makes a nice suit, let's look at it another way:

Let's say you go into a diner one day and order a hamburger. At the diner, they take a nice fresh piece of ground beef, make it into a patty, grill it, put it on a toasted bun, add on some nice crispy lettuce, pickles, onions, tomatoes, and top it with ketchup and mayo. They serve it to your table, you take a bite, and HOLY SHIT what an amazing tasting burger! It's juicy and flavorful, warm and toasty, thick and meaty... It's sex on a bun, basically.

After you finish eating your burger, the waitress brings you the check and your total is $8.00. You say to yourself, "Wow, that was the great burger. I'll remember that burger for a long time. For $8.00 I can't eat one of these burgers everyday, but I'll come back real soon."

The next day you're driving around hungry, and you drive past McDonald's. You see a sign in the window: HAMBURGERS 89 CENTS!

"Oh!" You yell. "They have hamburgers for 89 Cents! That's much cheaper than $8.00."

You drive your burnt orange 1982 Honda Civic hatchback into the first parking space in the lot and run inside for your cheap hamburger. You give the clerk your wrinkly dollar and she gives you a hamburger wrapped in paper. Sitting down at a booth, you eagerly unwrap your hamburger and take a big bite.

Your stomach turns as you chew your burger. You realize the patty is not only not fresh, it's rather cold, as well as your tomatoes and lettuce, which are wilted and taste something like the dehydrated vegetables you get in ramen noodle cups. Only the ketchup tastes the same as the $8.00 burger.

You begin to weep at your table, "This isn't anything like my $8.00 from the diner. This barely qualifies as a hamburger!"

Stores like Men's Warehouse and K&G are exactly the same as McDonalds. Yes, they they sell suits, but they're not the same quality of a good suit. They won't fit as well, they won't look as nice, and they won't hold up as long, period. You are ALWAYS better off taking the $250-400 you would have spent on a crappy suit from Men's Warehouse/K&G and putting into a $1000 suit.

89 Cents may seem tempting for both a hamburger and a suit, but in the long run they're both going to make you feel sick.

AND NOW:

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PART TWO – TELLING A GOOD SUIT FROM A BAD SUIT AND HOW TO FIT A SUIT.

-----------------------------------

WHAT MAKES A NICE SUIT, VS. A SHITTY SUIT.

There are three things that separates a high-end suit from one you buy at Wal-Mart for $8.93

#1- Fabric
#2- Cut
#3- Name recognition

NUMBER ONE -- LETS TALK FABRIC

There are a lot of things from which you can make a suit. Linen, cotton, cashmere, and silk are all options.

But, the most common thing suits are made of is wool. Of course, not all wool is equal. Wool, like cotton has a thread count. If you've ever slept at a hotel that has 1000 count egyptian cotton sheets, you know there's a difference between them and the 200 count cotton sheets at your home. Same thing goes for suits!

Cheap suits are made with a wool/polyester blend. Usually about 60-70% wool and 30-40% polyester. Wool/poly blend suits look cheap and usually wear out fairly fast because the polyester doesn't hold up very well. Also, since polyester isn't a natural fiber (and therefore doesn't breathe) cheap suits are hot to wear. If you like to sweat in the middle of December, cheap suits are for you!

Mid-range suits are made with 100% wool, but usually have a low wool thread count, usually between 70-100. 100 thread count wool is generally the accepted value where a suit turns from being "not too bad" to "hey this is pretty nice." Mid-range suits are also more breathable and airy and are more comfortable to wear.

High end suits are not only made with 100% wool, but have a thread count of 110-200. I have a suit that's 130 thread count, and it's like wrapping myself in kittens while jumping in a pile of feathers. The wool is light and airy, but at the same time structured and smooth.

When you're shopping for a suit, spotting cheap shit is easy. First, look at the suit. Mid and high end suits should have a slight sheen to them. Because the wool is more tightly woven with higher thread counts, the wool should reflect light. Sometimes this is not true, wool can be treated to look more matte, but IN GENERAL a nicer suit will have a sheen. Cheap suits always look matte, flat, and one-dimensional.

If you ever have a doubt, run your fingers over the suit. High end suits won't feel like that wool sweater your granny knitted you for x-mas, but cheap suits will. High end suits will feel soft, smooth, not-rough, not scratchy, almost silky. Cheap suits will feel like sandpaper.

If you still have any doubts, check the tags, or ask your friendly sales associate what the suit thread count is.

A note about "super" wool. Super wool usually means the wool is VERY tightly spun, making it naturally stain resistant, wrinkle resistant, and water resistant. 99% of the time, if you see something advertising "super wool," you know you're dealing with a good suit.

Only once have I seen a suit that had some sort of scotch-guard type spray on it. The asshole salesman was trying to pass it off as "super" wool because it had the scotch-guard spray. It was total bullshit. Like I said, that was only once, so don't worry too much about it. 9.9/10 times you see super wool, you're dealing with a quality suit.

NUMBER TWO -- CUT

Basically there are two types of cuts in the suit world- English and Italian. It's important to note that neither cut is "bad" per se. English cuts look great on some guys, and Italian cuts look great on some guys.

In general an English cut will have a more "square" shape. The shoulders will generally be wider, and the width will be more accommodating to wider men. Generally guys with broad shoulders look great in English cut suits, because the broadness of their shoulders frames the suit well, and if cut properly, the shoulders will allow the sides to pinch in slightly, giving the man good definition on the sides of his body, and avoiding a "boxy" look. English cut suits can have shape, it's simply less of an narrow cut than an Italian cut suit.

Italian cut suits are cut narrower, with suppressed waists, which creates shape on someone who is (generally) thin and shapeless. Some Italian brands are more slim than others. At the end of this post, I'll talk about specific brands, because there are too many to list here.

A great looking suit can either have a English cut or Italian cut, or lean a little in one direction or the other, but a cheap suit won't have any sort of cut, and it'll look like you've put on a burlap sack.

Knowing which suit type looks better on you all depends on your body type, shape, etc.

NUMBER THREE -- NAME RECOGNITION

Whether good, bad, or indifferent, we all know the fashion world thrives on name recognition. And, for the most part, suits with recognizable names are good quality, after all, how do you think they came to be recognized?

Like a lot of things in fashion though, you can't always believe 100% in every brand. I love about 8/10 of what Armani Collezioni does, but some of their stuff fits me better than other stuff. The key here is TRY ON, TRY ON, TRY ON.

The more brands you try on, the more you'll know what you like/dislike about each brand, and the more informed you'll be.

What makes a suit "fit":

There are basically three (3) things that you need to be aware of when you're buying a suit.

#1- How it fits in the shoulders
#2- How it fits in the torso area
#3- How the pants fit

NUMBER ONE -- THE SHOULDERS

The first and MOST IMPORTANT feature of a suit is that the shoulders MUST MUST MUST MUST MUST MUST MUST MUUUUUUUUUSSSSSSTTTTTT fit, or else nothing else will look right. Shoulders on a suit are the "frame" for the rest of the suit. You CANNOT get suit shoulders altered by a tailor and expect the suit to look how the designer intended. Because the shoulders are the frame of the suit, in almost all cases, altering the shoulders will make the suit hang crooked, move strangely, and look bad all around. Trust me, it's not worth it, plus it’s fucking expensive.

How do you know your shoulder size? You ask the sales person to measure you, that’s how.

They'll take a tape measure and measure you around the chest, under your armpits. They'll give you a number. Let's say you're a 42, because that's a pretty common size. If you're a short guy (let's say under 5'8" or 5'9") you'll be a 42 Short, if you're a average sized guy, you'll be a 42 Regular, and if you're a tall dude (let's say over 6'1" or 6'2"), you'll be a 42 Long.

Have your friendly sales associate help you figure out if you're a S,R, or L, if you're unsure. You can't tailor a long to a regular or a regular to a short, so if something is too long/short, get it right. There's no magical fix for a jacket that's too long.

After you know your shoulder size, all you have to do is find the rack with your size suit and start trying shit on.

A well fitted jacket should contour your shoulder smoothly and evenly. When you push on the sides of your shoulders with your hands, you should not have extra shoulder pad sticking out from the side of your suit. You should also not be able to poke your finger under the pad and into your shoulder, creating a "divot" in your suit. If this happens, go down one or two sizes in the suit. Also, of course, when you put the suit on, if the shoulder feels absurdly tight or loose, go up or down accordingly.

A note about suit brands: English cut suits like Hickey Freeman, Burberry, Oxxford, Hart Shaffner Marx, etc will be bigger in the shoulder BY DEFAULT. They are cut larger in the shoulder because they are cut for men with bigger shoulders and larger bodies. They're not made with skinny little Italian guys in mind, they're made for broader shouldered men. That doesn't mean guys with smaller shoulders can't wear them, but you may need to go down a size or two in one of these brands to properly fit the shoulder.

Italian/fashion brands are cut slimmer all around, including the shoulder. This does not mean that bigger shouldered guys can't wear them, but you may need to go up a size or two to properly fit the shoulders.

But probably the best way to know if a suit fits you in the shoulder is to simply ask the sales person, "hey does this fit me in the shoulder?"

NUMBER TWO -- THE TORSO AREA

This isn't too tricky, but you need to pay attention.

First of all, you need to realize that the torso is the part of the suit that you're probably going to need to get altered. So don't go into a store expecting a jacket to fit you like a glove right off the rack. It doesn't happen, so get over it.

The general idea when fitting a jacket is two fold:

a) A smooth, straight line from the middle of the shoulder to the end of the jacket. The back of the jacket shouldn't excessively "poof" out near the small of your back, nor should it look like it's glued to your body.

b) The jacket should pull in slightly in the under-armpit-mid-torso area, giving you a nice shape. Unless you're going for the ultra-slim look, the suit shouldn't be suction cupped to your body, but it shouldn't look like a giant square box on you either. Even Hickey Freeman (a very boxy brand to begin with) can give guys good shape, if they've got the right body type for it.

You can ask your friendly sales associate to pinch the back of your jacket with their hands, therefore simulating what the jacket will look like after tailoring. If the jacket doesn't hit you in the right places, or looks strange, try another brand, or another design by the same brand.

NUMBER THREE -- THE PANTS

Most suits (that are not sold as separates) have a drop of six (6), meaning that there are six sizes between the shoulders and the waist. So, if you're a 42 (S,R, or L, doesn't matter) the pants would have a waist size of 36.

Most suit pants have extra fabric built in them to go up or down from the drop by two or three inches. Any more/less than that, and the pants will have to be re-cut down the sides, which can be somewhat expensive ($50-100 at least.) If you're way out of the drop range on a suit, you may want to investigate suit separates.

Also, nearly all suit pants are un-hemmed at the bottom, so you will have to get them cuffed.

OKAY! So we now know what makes a suit fit well. It's now time for:


----------------------------------

PART THREE – SUIT COLORS AND STYLES

-----------------------------------

COLOR MY WORLD

Let’s say you’re going out to buy your first suit. You go into the store and approach the rack. You begin to look…

Black, gray, navy, olive, brown, tan, white, cream, dark gray, light navy, dark olive, light olive, light brown, dark tan, off-white, gray with pinstripe, black with shadow stripe, navy with windowpane….. holy shit what color do you pick!?!?!?!

When it comes to versatility, there are two suit colors in which every man looks good.

The most versatile suit, and the one that every man should own is a dark gray/charcoal suit.

Gray is the ultimate neutral color. Nearly any shirt/tie can be put under a charcoal suit and it will look great. For a job interview or other classy event, a crisp white shirt and red tie is all you need. Or, funk up your gray suit a little with a shirt color like pink or purple and a badass tie.

The second most versatile suit and the one every man should own if he already has a charcoal suit is navy. Navy is also versatile, and looks clean and crisp on almost all men. Also, it is simple to dress up/down a navy suit because it is equally as neutral as gray.

If you already have both a gray and navy suit, I would suggest the following colors in terms of versatility (excluding stripes): brown, black, tan, olive, cream, white.

TO STRIPE, OR NOT TO STRIPE?

This is where we start getting into a little bit less of the “basic” section and head more toward “advanced.” Stripes aren’t bad, but there are too many widths, styles, and colors to say categorically that stripes are good or bad.

In general however, the less busy/noticeable the stripe in the suit is, the more it’s considered conservative. It’s pretty simple, I mean, if you’ve got a gray suit with big thick purple stripes, that’s going to be far less conservative, than one with subtle thin white stripes.

If you have any questions about any specific stripe/color combinations, feel free to ask.

BREASTS (NO, NOT THAT KIND)

Stick with single breasted suits. Double breasted suits are for old men and highly conservative businessmen. If you’re over 50, or are a CEO of a multi-million dollar company, go ahead and wear a double breasted suit.

TWO, THREE, OR 12 BUTTON SUITS?

In the suit world, there’s always a debate about two or three button suits being “in” or “out.” It’s like an absurdly long, and might I note, unfunny, running joke that no one seems to want to end.

So here’s the deal: Two or three button suits are neither “in” nor “out,” they simply are. If you like the look of two button, wear a two button. If you like the look of three button, wear a three button. Neither of the two will ever go out of style for any extended period of time.

One button is usually reserved for tuxedos, but a one button suit can be done.

Do not wear more than a three button suit. Period. Four and five button suits are out there, but please don't wear them.

----------------------------------

PART FOUR – BRAND FIT BY BODY TYPE

-----------------------------------

Here I’ll describe a body type and then list some brands (from above) that would most likely look good on you. Please take this only as an approximation. I encourage you to try on as many different suits as you can, so you can find a brand you really like.

PLEASE NOTE: The brands are arranged in an order of which brands you may want to try first, based on how I’m guessing they’ll fit you.

#1 -- I’m a big guy with big shoulders, and a square body. It’s not like I have a beer gut, or anything, I’m just big all over.

Try these brands: Hickey Freeman,
Hart Shaffner Marx, Burberry, Isaia, Oxxford, Hugo Boss Black Label.

#2 – I’m a guy with broad shoulders and a square body, but I also have a beer gut going.

Try these brands: Hickey Freeman, Hart Shaffner Marx, Burberry, Oxxford and/or Oxxford Crest, Brooks Brothers.

#3 – I’m a pretty average guy. I don’t have overly big or overly small shoulders. Also, I’m not especially wide, or especially fat.

Try these brands: Burberry, Zegna, Hugo Boss Black Label, Isaia, Etro, Corneliani, Armani Collezioni, Oxxford and/or Oxxford Crest, Brioni.

#4 –I’m sort of a skinny guy. I’m not super skinny, but I’m skinnier than most other people.

Try these brands: Hugo Boss Black or Red Label, Armani Collezioni, Zegna, Corneliani, Paul Smith, Etro, D&G, Prada, Isaia, Brioni, Burberry.

#5 – I’m a motherfucking stick figure. When I turn sideways, I disappear.

Try these brands: Paul Smith, Armani Collezioni, Hugo Boss Red Label, Dolce & Gabbana, Christian Dior, Brioni

----------------------------------

PART FIVE – Misc.

-----------------------------------

Here’s a few random questions that I’ll answer before they get asked:

Q: What’s the “hot” trends for suits this spring/summer?

Gray. Lots and lots and lots of gray. Other than that, white and green seem to be having a touch here and there.

Q: What color should my socks be if my suit is _______?

A: Excluding black suits (in which you should wear black socks), your socks should be one shade darker than your pants, regardless of what color shoe you are wearing with them.

Q: What about matching shirts and ties with my shirts?

A: I purposely didn’t address this in the first post, because there is too much to write about shirt and tie matching. It’s an art all its own.

Q: Are there different types of lapels or is that only tuxedos?

A: There are three types of lapels on suits:


1)Notch Lapel- This is the most common type of suit lapel, and the most versitile. Great for almost any occasion, and can be dressed up, or worn casually.

2)Peak Lapel- This is a somewhat fancier lapel, usually seen on double breasted suits and tuxedos. Although a bit more fashion forward, single breasted peak lapel suits are available.... and they're awesome.

3)Mandarin Collar- The laughing stock of the suit world. Seriously, don't wear this. Period.

 

Q: Which of the buttons do you button on a suit jacket?

A: Two button jacket : First button only

Three button jacket: First and second together, or second only.  NEVER BUTTON THE BOTTOM BUTTON

Q: What about cufflinks?

A: I love them!  There are a few rules though.

1) Don't mix metals. If you're wearing a gold belt buckle, don't wear silver cufflinks, or vice versa. This also applies to your watch and ring (if you wear one.) All the metals on your body should match.

2) Don't worry about matching exactly. If you've got a pink tie, and you want to wear pink cufflinks, that's cool. Don't worry about matching the *exact* shade of pink from the tie. The idea is to coordinate, not match exactly.

3.) Traditionally you shouldn't wear french cuff shirts (and cufflinks) without wearing at least a blazer --if not a full suit. French cuffs are meant to go under a blazer/suit. Now of course, if you're trying to pull of some sort of fashion statement with cuffs with no blazer, that's something else entirely...

Q: Dry Cleaning or pressing?

A : Dry cleaning is where they use chemicals to "clean" (its more like freshening up) the suit. If your suit is simply wrinkled (but doesn't stink) just ask the cleaners to press the suit. Pressing the suit costs less, and all they do is steam the wrinkles out... no chemicals used. The other obvious thing, is use a dry cleaners that doesn't look like a shit hole. Ask some friends and see if they have any recommendations. If in doubt, go somewhere that has slightly higher prices. Believe me, the place that will press your suit for $2 won't take care of your suit as nicely as the place that costs $6-10.



How do I know if there's a Neiman Marcus Last Call, Saks Off 5th, or Nordstrom Rack near me?

NM: http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/info/index.jhtml

Saks: http://www.saksfifthavenue.com/stores/stores.jsp

Norstrom: http://about.nordstrom.com/MapPoint...aspx?origin=tab

The Weight Loss Guide

Where to begin:
Right here, right now. Dieting starts with you to accept the fact that you want to do something about your current state. Whether it be muscle wise, cardiovascular wise, or weight wise. Dedication is the biggest thing you will be combating with. Be positive with yourself, you don't lose weight overnight, it takes months, in some cases even years. STICK WITH IT!!

Starting off:
You need to begin by changing what you eat every day. As hard as it may seem, your days of drinking 50 cans of soda a day while chomping down on endless bags of doritoes have come to a halt, its time to whip yourself into shape and start to become the sexy looker that you are. So its time to get rid of all that junk food out there.

Your worst enemy: Soda. If you look at the health facts of soda there are enou