Male Fashion FAQ : Fitting in with the normals
Let's face the facts. Many of us on this site and in the counterculture don't really understand traditional fashion very well. Anime t-shirts, combat boots, and sunglasses at night may work very well for you in a Comic Book convention but they will fail you miserably if you are out trying to recruit young professionals from a local university for some nefarious scheme or another. The ability to fit into any environment isn't just a handy skill to have, it's vital for your survival in the modern world. Looking sharp AND not calling attention to yourself is a hell of a card to put in your deck of tools, and nothing is worse than seeing a 6 month operation come crashing down due to the automatic negitive stigma against the clothes of your crew.
The most important thing to remember about fashion and style is that there are no rules, only guidelines. Style is a completely individual matter which depends on individual tastes, although some things are more or less universally agreed upon. No matter what you think, somebody will think differently. However, the guidelines that do exist come from years and years of experimentation, collaboration, agreement and disagreement (and often catfights) among people who generally know what they're doing, and it is ill-advised to try to break all the rules right away. You are not obligated to follow anyone's suggestions, just as no one is obligated to respect you for the way you dress.
Chapter 1: The Basics
What should I wear?
No one can tell you this. You have to learn for yourself by watching others and shopping until you see things you like. But, for starters, get yourself some decent jeans, sneakers, t-shirts, polos, and collared shirts because they look good on everyone.
What clothes should every man have in his wardrobe?
This is by no means a definitive list, if you have additions please let me know.
-- Jeans. Ever since men have been men, jeans have been jeans.
-- Khakis. Flat front. Only you can know if you need stain guard.
-- T-shirts. Sometimes you are hungover and buttons are hard!
-- Polo Shirts. For yachting on the cape.
-- 2 or 3 casual blazers.
-- One fall and one winter jacket.
-- Sneakers. You know, for sneaking.
-- One black belt, one brown belt.
-- One pair of dress shoes in black and one in brown.
-- One black suit, one navy blue or charcoal gray suit, one lighter colored suit in lightweight cotton or linen for summer.
-- 2 or 3 white dress shirts, 4 or 5 light and dark solid-color dress shirts.
-- 8 to 10 ties in complementary colors, simple stripes or check pattern
-- One black tie. One tie with your favorite cartoon character on it.
-- Sunglasses, a nice watch, and a leather wallet.
How can I find clothes that fit me?
Wearing well-fitting clothes will not make you noticeable, but wearing ill-fitting clothing will make you stand out. Usually the idea is to wear something as small as possible without being too small. This may be hard to accept at first, because it's not as "comfy" as wearing tents, but it's important. T-shirts should not billow around your waist or arms, nor should they hang past your pockets. Pants should not require a tight belt to stay on, and the cuff (at the bottom) should rest on your shoe and maybe even bunch up a bit. Clothing should never "droop" or sag off your body.
http://imagesocket.com/view/T_Shirt_313b.jpg
These men are wearing t-shirts which are too large for them (random google image). See how the t-shirt billows and takes its own shape, rather than hugging their body? See how the sleeves hang to the elbow, shapeless? See how it bunches and bags around the waist? This is bad! No matter how clever your t-shirt is or how much you love it, if it fits like this your time together is over.
Here's a good rule of thumb: Look on their biceps. See that stitching that comes together in the shape of a + sign? That seam should always fall right on the very top of your shoulder. If it falls on your arm or bicep, the shirt is too large. If it falls on your collarbone, the shirt is too small.
http://imagesocket.com/view/2K_MS104_V1_BIG50b.jpg
This is an awesome t-shirt, but that's beside the point. It fits this model perfectly. Notice that it is hugging his torso without being skin-tight. Ditto the arms. The seam I mentioned before is perched right on the top of his shoulderbone. It shows off his body by being form-fitting and slim, but not garishly tight. Even if your body is not perfect, this is what you want! This is what you are going for!
As far as jeans go, there is a lot more variation in how jeans should "fit." If you are new to fashion, stick with a straight leg or very slight bootcut. What that means is that if you notice the bootcut before you get the jeans on, get rid of them.
What color clothes should I buy?
This is a very individual issue because it depends on your skin tone and eye and hair color. Luckily, there's an easy way: Try things on. Go to stores and try on everything you can find. See what colors look good on you and what don't. Here's a short guide:
If you have pale skin and light hair: White will make you look washed out, black will make you look pale. Grey will look awesome. Lighter and darker blues and greens (think sky to navy), bright colors and some pastels. Avoid earth tones and saturated hues like burgundy or deep purple.
If you have pale skin and dark hair: Pastels and light colors (yeah yeah gay whatever), bright colors, and some darker colors to contrast your skin and complement your hair. If you have red hair, don't wear green. black will make you look sick. Try orange, it's a pleasant surprise to most people, as well as brown. Again, no earth tones, but try some maroon or saturated color.
If you have dark skin: Rich colors (deep orange, red, green, blue) and earth tones (brown) to complement your skin color. Avoid pastels, wear lots of white and charcoal.
If you are Asian: I've never figured this out! Sorry! And good luck, there's lots of info out there for you.
What sort of clothing shouldn't I wear?
There are a million fashion don'ts, but here are some to think about : No leather pants, no spandex, no gold chains, avoid plaid until you are more comfortable with fashion, no flannel, no metallic or textured shirts, no anime t-shirts, no Tevas, no slogan t-shirts, no hemp necklaces, nothing with any rip or stain on it (even if it is your favorite shirt you throw that rag away). This list will be added to.
Trench coats are very appropriate for businessmen and look good over a suit, but are usually out of place otherwise.
But I want to wear anime shirts!
Fine, but don't pretend people won't judge you for it. If you want to dress well and impress people, you have to accept a little judgment.
If I can't wear a trench coat, what should I wear in the winter?
The first thing to remember is that most people look bulky and misshapen in the winter. To look really good, the key is to maintain the correct shape of a human body and not look too padded, which often means wearing slimmer, tighter winter jackets. You may spend a ton of money on a good jacket. That's okay, because a high quality jacket will look good and keep you warm and last forever.
Pea Coats are my personal favorite. They're warm as hell, double-breasted and very classy-looking. When worn with a colorful scarf and some black leather gloves, everyone looks classy!
They are sometimes expensive but often available at thrift stores for less than $20 if you're lucky. HOWEVER: many clueless nerds buy a pea coat and expect to look classy instantly. Pea coats don't just look good on their own! They need to be the correct size and worn with the correct accessories. If you're wearing a collared shirt you can wear the coat without a scarf, but if you are wearing a t-shirt or something similar, for gods sake YOU NEED A SCARF. Wearing a beautiful formal coat over a sloppy t-shirt is very grating on the eyes.
Other overcoats are similarly styled and look very dashing also. This picture comes from GQ so take it with a grain of salt (i.e. try it without the hoodie), but here are two very nice-looking knee-length overcoats:
http://imagesocket.com/view/00008f352.jpg
As a rule, this sort of coat should hang between your thigh and your knee. A coat should never come further down than your knee unless you're going for the vampire look.
If you live in a warmer climate or a pea coat isn't your thing, consider an M65 jacket like the one Surrender is rocking in this photo:
These can be found all over the place. Spiewak, Express, H&M, and Army/Navy stores often carry them (more on this later). Buy a slimmer, non-bulky jacket. If it has a lining, take it out and get the smallest size that fits. Then put the lining back in. I know this sounds harsh, but like I said, slim jackets are the key to looking good in the winter.
Additionally, you will want to invest in 4-5 scarves and wear a different one every day. Everyone loves scarves, and they are sold everywhere. You will be hard pressed to look bad in one, unless you fuck it up. Typically winter coats will come in dark, solid colors, so lively-colored and patterned scarves provide an accent. Here are some examples of good scarves for men:
http://imagesocket.com/view/sr_janmu_mens_scarf_woodlandhaze8a0.jpg
http://imagesocket.com/view/Stripe142b.jpg
Get some subdued black leather gloves and a simple knit hat unless you're a kooky enough guy to wear mittens.
How about leather jacket?
Every complete wardrobe includes "THE" leather jacket. That jacket will be different for everyone else. You might find it at a thrift store, or it might be a sultry designer piece that you have to blow $1k on, but the idea of a leather jacket is: get a very, very nice one that you will be able to give to your kids.
Leather jackets can be incredibly hit or miss. Considering the cost and thoughtfulness involved, it's probably best to wait a while before purchasing one. If you already have one, post a picture and give us a look!
Now that I know how to stay warm in the winter, how can I stay cool in the summer?
Many fashionistas bemoan summer as the sartorial dog days of shorts and t-shirts day in day out for months on end. To stay cool, there are two options: Wear skimpier clothing or wear looser clothing made of lighter materials. Most men retire to shorts, which often make us look like chicken-legged wonders. Human legs are usually more slender than the rest of your body, so why are most shorts designed to be boxy and loose? I don't know. If you are going to wear shorts, here are some good ones:
http://imagesocket.com/view/TROV_MP14_V4f95.jpg
http://imagesocket.com/view/MA_MP14_V1c99.jpg
http://imagesocket.com/view/0132_4771_204583.jpg
Cargo shorts are usually for the college crowd, but can be rocked at any age if you have athletic legs. Be sure to keep the pockets buttoned so they don't billow out. Plaid or seersucker shorts are great for younger guys (do your friends describe you as "offbeat" or "quirky?" consider plaid shorts!), but older guys will want to stick with plain front (no pleats!) relatively slim shorts in khaki, olive, or something else sort of subdued, which should break right around the knee. Some larger gents might want to avoid shorts because they don't hide weight well. Wear shorts with flip-flops or birkenstocks, or a mocassin or slip-on (no socks). For extra points, try a pair of Sperry Topsiders (google for it).
Alternatively, consider a pair of loose linen trousers or very light cotton pants, maybe even cuffed if you're at the beach or a barbecue or something. As far as other summerwear is concerned, look for "summerweight" t-shirts (which are thin and soft) or lighter collared shirts. Wear your clothing a bit looser in the summer because billowing clothing will help keep you cool.
What kind of swimsuit should I wear?
If you go to the beach and people are checking out your swimming suit, you're doing something wrong. Seriously though, a swimsuit is rarely used and very basic and almost anything goes. As long as it's not too huge or too small, pretty much anything goes (no speedos plzkthx).
What is a polo shirt?
http://imagesocket.com/view/served5f.jpg
A polo shirt (incidentally, this shirt fits very well). Note the collar (please do not pop this) and buttons (leave 2-3 unbuttoned depending on the number available and how confident you feel about your chest), and the fitted torso and arms (baggy arms are a no-no). Polos are typically 100% cotton. Some are very expensive (i.e. LaCoste, Penguin, a few others) Some are very cheap (H&M, Express, AA, or even Mossimo from Target). Too many will make you look way preppy, too few will make you look like you hate your parents. Snag a vintage LeTigre or Members Only from a thrift store for mad, mad props.
What is a collared shirt?
AKA Button-up, button-front, dress shirt, formal shirt, shirt, oxford shirt, button-down (incorrect, button-down refers to the collar). Although polos do have a collar, "collared shirt" typically refers to dress or casual shirts which have a collar and a row of buttons up the front of the shirt. This is the most versatile form of shirt available to men, from in-your-boxers casual to President's dinner formal. You should own at least 5-10 of these shirts or you are very ill-prepared for life.
Here are some formal shirts:
http://imagesocket.com/view/SPLCRE_236f.jpg
http://imagesocket.com/view/formal1fbb.JPG
Notice the reserved patterns and colors, sharp collars and quiet fabrics. Simple stripes or check pattern, one pocket, probably 100% cotton. Good for work, weddings, formal affairs, parties after college.
Here are some casual shirts:
http://imagesocket.com/view/88817L826.jpg
http://imagesocket.com/view/84329Lb98.jpg
Crazier fabrics, louder patterns and colors (OK not in those examples but you know what I mean), more details (like pockets, crazy buttons, embroidery)... when it comes to casual shirts, anything goes. Well, almost anything...
Here are some shirts you should not wear:
http://imagesocket.com/view/MP753MF_288md7f6.jpg
http://imagesocket.com/view/mens_casual_shirt759.jpg
http://imagesocket.com/view/Poster_21131da3.jpg
Starting to understand?
I'm not going to get into formalwear here because that deserves it's own FAQ. But that's the lowdown on shirts for dudes. You should have a few in light and dark colors and white for formal occasions, and as many casual shirts as you like. I have like 20 which I rotate through with blazing speed and style... yeehaw!
What is a t-shirt?
Get Out.
What is a V-neck/U-neck/crew-neck?
V-necks look like a 'V', U-necks look like a 'U' and crew necks look like every other t-shirt you've ever seen.
What kind of shoes should I get?
If you're looking at sneakers, here are some that are classic styles which look OK with more or less any "look."
Virtually unchanged in forever and available in every color under the rainbow.
Converse Jack Purcell - A higher-quality low-top from Converse. Many colors, more comfy, higher price.
Onitsuka Tiger Mexico66/Ultimate81 - Comfy, versatile, colorful running shoes with the tiger stripes. Look around, your most stylish friends already have some. Avoid the loud colors, get them on sale.
Puma Roma - Or Future Cat, or Basil, or Munich, or whatever. The bad news is they've been popular for years... the good news is, that's just because they look good. Won't turn heads, but definitely a solid shoe for the money. Any color or style under the rainbow.
Adidas Samba - Or Campus, or Original, or Campus, or whatever. They're classics, they look cool but not loud, and they go well with everything.
Adidas Stan Smith - A classic white shoe. Cool. It's generally a good idea to have at least one pair of all-white sneakers.
Vans Classic Slip-On - They come in lots of colors and patterns, like plaid and shit. Common territory of punks and skanks but they're still cool.
Nike Dunks - I don't know anything about Dunks other than that people like them and that they're as complicated on their own as the rest of fashion combined. If anyone wants to write about them, I'll put it here.
Where can I get all of these marvelous clothes that you are talking about?
There are lots of places! I won't get into jeans because those are covered in the Denim thread and that's a whole nother thing. But let's get started with brick and mortar stores:
American Apparel - They sell t-shirts, polos, and a bunch of other stuff in a million colors. The quality is generally pretty good, they are stylish.H&M - A favorite for cheap fashion basics. They have stores in most major cities, but no online shop. Sorry! If there's one near you, check it out. Google it for more info.
Express Men - Express offers graphic tees, polos, dress and casual shirts as well as ties, accessories, and sweaters. Their quality is OK but their prices are generally a bit much for my taste. Get what's on sale. Their "Producer" and "Director" pants are great slacks.
Barney's, Nordstrom, Saks, etc. - High-priced couture retailers. You will be overwhelmed during your first few trips. Try Nordstrom Rack or Saks Off Fifth if there's one near you: They sell all of the clearance items, generally high quality off-season merchandise for cheap.
Zara - Offers relatively low-price, medium-quality formalwear (suits, shirts, ties, etc). Probably a good place to get your first suit.
Department Stores - Sears, JC Penny, Macy's, and the like. These are good for basics (t-shirts, some casual collared shirts, polos, slacks) and occasionally have upper tier brands for lower prices, but they're hit or miss. Don't count on it.
Thrift Stores - Goodwill, Salvation Army, Value Village, Savers. Completely hit or miss. They will take up a lot of shopping time, but you can find some ridiculously good pieces for very very little money. Good luck!
I'm a shut in and I live in the middle of nowhere! Can I shop online?
Uhh... yeah. duh. But it's complicated as shit! And you never know if anything's going to fit you! So be careful. Here's a few places, which are all more or less the same to me.
BlueFly
Yoox
Revolve Clothing
KarmaLoop (Use Battle Cattle's repcode: CE5139, when ordering from karmaloop. You'll get 20% off the first time you use it.)
Zappos Use them for shoes! Free return shipping if it doesn't fit!
So, if I've never ever actually worn nice clothes before or I just lost a lot of weight, where should I start?
Well, congratulations, you're on the right track! A good way to start is to spend a day shopping at all of the stores you can find and LEAVE YOUR WALLET AT HOME! That way you can get a good handle on things without spending money. Don't be afraid to ask questions, take risks, and try things on. As long as you don't buy it, no harm no foul. The other goal here is to see what size you are and how you want clothes to fit.
Although it is much cheaper to shop on the internet, there are risks involved with sizing and stuff, so your first round of purchases should probably come from brick and mortar stores. If you have a H&M nearby, awesome, because all of these things can be had there. You can do it at Express too, but it's a bit more expensive and not as subdued. Failing that, try a nicer department store like Macy's. To start, try to get a few dress shirts, a few casual shirts, a blazer, a pair of sneakers, and a few tees or polos. Spend some time getting comfortable in these clothes. Your next round of purchases should be accessories like belts, shoes, scarves, gloves... even new underwear can make you feel better.
Eventually, when you are more comfortable with sizing, you can try to order online. Keep return policies in mind and understand that not everything will fit perfectly the first time.
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